![]() ![]() “Carrier peptides deliver the enzymes to cells to stimulate collagen and elastin. “Signal peptides consist of amino acids, which tell the protein where in the cells it needs to go to stimulate collagen production and increase elasticity,” Green says. Instead, many creams and serums contain peptides, which can penetrate and help our skin’s own collagen production. Proteins like collagen are too big to get through. The skin barrier is also why we can’t just slather collagen onto our faces to rid ourselves of wrinkles. Some companies have even chosen to market their hyaluronic acid - a moisture-binding ingredient - as having a low molecular weight, just so you know it’s easily absorbed (look for 50-1000 kDa, the ideal effective size for HA). Vitamins C, B3 and E, as well as hyaluronic acid, are all easily absorbed. “If the molecular structure of a substance is too large, it cannot be absorbed through the skin,” Green says. The other factor is the molecular structure of the ingredients. They can be very irritating to the skin, which is why some people choose to avoid them. Sodium laurel sulfate, dimethyl sulfoxide, propylene glycol and other alcohols are all used for this purpose. These occlusive ingredients sit on top of the epidermis and prevent the other active ingredients from evaporating.Ĭhemists may also add ingredients that mess with your skin’s barrier. “Applying a product with occlusion - a covering like a bandage or Saran wrap - will increase absorption,” Skelsey explains. On the other hand, some products may include an occlusive ingredient (something thick, like petrolatum or dimethicone). In my office, I give people a vitamin C serum or an anti-aging serum, just to help penetrate the skin, because it absorbs almost immediately.” “ Serums can absorb very quickly because they’re liquid. Michele Green, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says. “The delivery vehicle in the product is what enables absorption or penetration,” Dr. The chemists mixing up your go-to creams know a lot about skin absorption, which is why they might choose to put active ingredients in a watery serum or emollient oil so they can be easily absorbed by the skin. “ better absorbed in skin is that is inflamed or broken, either through injury or deliberately - for instance, after microneedling, where small channels are made in the skin,” Skelsey says. The best skin absorption areas are places where the skin is thin (e.g., your eyelids) and where it’s hydrated. “The condition of the skin has a big impact on substance absorption,” Skelsey says. Others go between the corneocytes or right through them via diffusion (that’s when substances naturally move from a crowded area to a less busy one). Some ingredients (but not many) get in through the hair follicles and sweat gland pores. Maral Skelsey, director of the Dermatologic Surgery Center and clinical associate professor at Georgetown University School of Medicine. “Skin absorption is based on the thickness of the outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum and the ability of a substance to get past the ‘bricks and mortar’ components of the skin,” says Dr. But when you put something on your skin, it can permeate that top layer. In healthy skin, that barrier blocks out invading substances and locks in moisture. On top of that is the acid mantle, your first layer of defense against microbes. It’s made of dead skin cells called corneocytes, which are arranged like bricks and connected by desmosome, with lipids (fatty acids) floating between them like mortar. The top layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is the barrier between us and the world. It’s made of three layers: the hypodermis (the innermost layer with fat and connective tissue), the dermis (collagen, connective tissue, blood vessels, hair follicles and sweat glands) and the epidermis (the outermost layer). But that still raises the question: How does skin absorption work? Is our skin actually absorbing all the lotions and potions we put on it? And is it also taking in evil toxins? How Dermal Absorption Worksįirst, here’s what the skin looks like. Okay, we know it’s neither of those things - we’ve looked in the mirror and seen pictures. Spend enough time reading the descriptions of beauty products and you may get the sense that your skin is either a) a sponge ready to soak up any and all helpful ingredients or b) a fragile membrane with a bunch of holes that are always getting clogged or too big. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |